Bosnia & Herzegovina tourism guide

GENERAL

Historically, Bosnia & Herzegovina was a melting pot of different cultures, with Christians, Muslims and Jews co-existing peaceably in this area for many centuries. The country’s architecture was diverse and fascinating – beautiful churches and mosques existed in equal measure.

The 500 years of Turkish rule left their trace, mainly in the capital, Sarajevo. The Turkish quarter and the town center have been largely rebuilt and the city, although scarred by war, is coming back to life. The colourful bazaars are also part of the Ottoman heritage. Travnik in Bosnia was known as the town of the wazirs at the time of the Ottoman Empire. Much of the town was spared in the war and it is still possible to visit the medieval castle. The many-coloured mosque near the base of ul Hendek is alleged to contain hairs from Muhammad’s beard.

The reconstruction of Mostar, once a prime tourist destination, is an ongoing process; however, most of the town’s monuments were destroyed in the war, including all the 16th- and 17th-century mosques and the famous Turkish bridge. This bridge was recently reconstructed and opened in mid-2004 to the public. A few medieval buildings and cobbled streets survived the war completely. Banja Luka, the capital of the Republika Srpska, still contains a 16th-century fort and an amphitheatre. There are several spas in the Republika Srpska area, most of which are operating again. Bijeljina, Dubica, Laktasi, Srebrenica, Telic and Visegrad all have natural mineral springs and medical facilities.

Note: The civil war not only caused numerous deaths and casualties but led to the devastation of the country’s historic towns. However, the rebuilding process continues.

SARAJEVO

Sarajevo is a city in which even strangers can feel at home. Neither geographically expansive nor characterised by large buildings, the city retains a particular, arresting charm with its abundance of busy café's and abiding tradition of hospitality.

This city epitomizes a partial centuries-old struggle against outside influences combined with the absorption of these influences into one of the most diverse cultures in Europe. Indeed, few places on earth feature an Orthodox and a Catholic church, a mosque and a synagogue within easy walking distance of each other. If there were any city in Europe that effortlessly straddles east and west, it is Sarajevo. Here the Byzantine and Ottoman empires of the east and the Roman, Venetian and Austro-Hungarian empires of the west left an indelible mark through culture, traditions and religions.

There are numerous interesting areas to walk in the city, but the most interesting of any walking tours through Sarajevo centres are those around the old town Turkish quarters and Marijin Dvor, both of which are situated in the flat valley of the Miljacka River.

The Old Town 'Bascarsija' may be hard to pronounce but it is certainly one of the most impressive and charming market centers in the country. Bascarsija has been a trading and meeting place since the 15th century as caravans from Asia minor, Dubrovnik and the west met here to trade their wares.

The old narrow streets on both sides of the river above Bascarsija are well worth the wander but if you are not up for the steep trek to places like Jajce Castle (Eugene of Savoy Castle) and the ruins of the medieval town, there are local buses and car tours. The views of the whole city from these areas are spectacular. Otherwise a walking tour of the main sites can be done in about three hours depending on your pace and number of café stops.

OTHER PLACES

Mostar

The old bridge is perhaps the finest example of Ottoman ingenuity and Dalmatian masonry in the western Balkans. Not only does this precious stone structure bridge the east and west banks of the emerald Neretva River, it also symbolizes the crossroads of eastern and western civilisations.

When the Stari most, or Old Bridge, collapsed from tank shelling in 1993 it was like the heart was ripped out of most Mostar natives. Even mentioning the bridge for years after it fell to the bottom of the Neretva River could invoke tears as it symbolized both the city and the country as a whole. Now, more than a decade later, the beautiful stone structure that had spanned the Neretva River for over four centuries once again arches across its raging waters. The bridge is Mostar's core and its reconstruction means that life is slowly but surely returning to normal in what is most certainly the most beautiful city in Bosnia & Herzegovina.

Neum - the sunny Adriatic

Although its only a tiny strip of the gorgeous Adriatic, Neum has become a major seaside resort. Ideally located between Split and Dubrovnik and just a short distance to Mostar and Medugorje, Neum is an inexpensive holiday spot for fun and the sun.

Sutjeska National Park

Locally famous for the great battle of WWII when the partisans defeated a massive German army this park is also home to one of Europe's last remaining primeval forests in Perucica. Also home to Bosnia's highest peak (Maglic Mt. 2,386 m) its a paradise for hikers, walkers and nature lovers.

Medugorje

In the early 1980's several teenagers saw a vision of the Virgin Mary. Since then this sleepy Herzegovina village has been transformed into one of the largest Catholic pilgrimages in the world.

Tekija (Blagaj)

This 16th century dervish order monastery epitomizes the harmonious existence of man and nature. This stunning structure was built at the mouth of the largest source in Herzegovina which gushes from a cave at the base of a 200 meter cliff.

Jahorina Mountain

The XIV Winter Olympics are long gone, but the slopes still remain, and so does olympic style skiing. Jahorina has made a great comeback as southeast Europe's best ski resort. Great skiing. Great accommodation. Great fun. All just a short ride from the capital Sarajevo.

Bjelasnica Mountain

This Olympic mountain is also making a steady comeback. It was the site of the men’s slalom and is by far the most challenging ski trails in the country. Off the beaten track are ideal spots for cross country and tour skiing, as well as year round hiking, biking, and village tourism in the ancient highland villages.

Travnik

Famous for its Nobel Laureate writer Ivo Andric this Ottoman town still best represents what was once called the European Istanbul. This ancient mosque's and fortress that dot the skyline are as impressive as the original style Bosnian architecture that gives this town its charm. Not far from Travnik is the mountain ski resort of Vlasic - a paradise for snowboarders and a great nature break spot.

Kravica Waterfalls

The Trebizat River creates a wonderful green belt amidst the dry landscape of western Herzegovina. This stunning waterfall runs over 100 meters long and drops an impressive 25 meters. Kravica is an ideal place for a picnic or a swim and definitely provides one of the most picturesque sceneries in Herzegovina.

Tvrdos Monastery

Trvdos is a 14th century Orthodox monastery near the beautiful towns of Trebinje and Dubrovnik. The frescoes are amongst the finest in the region and the monastery itself is home to several 5th and 6th century icons.

Kraljeva Sutjeska

Locally acclaimed as being one of the last seats of the medieval Bosnian Kingdom this quaint town is a bastion of ancient Bosnian history. From the medieval fortress and Franciscan monastery to one of the oldest mosque's in the country it’s a wonderfully unique rural experience rarely found today in Europe.

Jajce and the Pliva Lake region

Jajce was the last stronghold of the Bosnian kings before it fell to the invading Ottomans in 1528. Known for the massive waterfall that blesses the heart of the city Jajce represents multiple layers of this regions long history - with traces of Illyrian and Roman finds as well as the distinct Bosnian and Ottoman features. The Pliva Lake region offer world class fly-fishing, as well as great water sports in the lake region.

Sarajevo City Hall

The building was constructed to house the city administration and the construction works were financed from the funds of Sarajevo Municipality.

The City Hall is the biggest and the most representative building from the Austro-Hungarian period in Sarajevo. It burnt down in the night of 25th-26th August, 1992.

The first project was entrusted to Mr. Karlo PARŽIK. However, Minister B. Kallay had certain remarks on the project, which the architect refused to accept, so the elaboration of the new project was entrusted to another architect Mr. Alexandar WITTEK, who was working on it from 1892 to 1893. Since the project was planned to be in pseudo-Moorish style, this architect visited Cairo twice in order to study buildings constructed in this style. His models were the mosque and the school of Hasan II in Cairo. Since this man (allegedly because of the project) got mentally sick and committed a suicide, the work on the project was continued by Æiril M. Ivekoviæ. With minor modifications of Wittek’s work, the project was finally finished in 1894.

The building construction started in 1892, and finished in 1894, at the time the project itself was finalized. The building was formally opened on April 20th, 1896, when Baron Ivan APEL officially assigned it to the City administration. It remained so until 1949, when it was given to the National and University Library.

The construction works cost 984,000 kronen, and, with additional 32,000 kronen given for furnishings, the total amount was more than a million kronen.

The City Hall building was constructed on the site of the Mustaj-pasha’s mejdan, where once two inns and a house were situated. The inns were pulled down and the house owner wanted to have his house practically carried brick by brick and rebuilt on the other side of the Miljacka opposite to the City Hall, for a bag of ducats. So was done and this house is there even today, and it is known as the INAT KUĆA (Spite House).

The building was constructed in a mixture of styles combining historicism and pseudo-Moorish styles. The style models are the so-called Mozarab and Moorish arts from Spain and the Maghreb. The basic construction elements are columns, walls, arches and glassed dome roofing the hall.

The building has a triangular foundation with a six-angled centre – the hall, the most important part of the luxurious interior topped with the glass dome. In order to comply with its function and architectural self, quite luxurious façade is applied with a representative front-side doorway. The façade is coloured red and yellow in turns with ornamental faïence boarding.

The architectural diversity of the building is followed by an adequate pictorial decoration.

The painted decorations are placed in the main stairway, walls of the main auditorium, doorway and the central hall, whilst the stained-glass showcases ornamented with floral patterns of modelling decoration, seen in the main stairway and under the dome, signify a flowery style of the building.

Sarajevo City Hall construction took the western European architecture for its model along with all the elements typical for such constructions. The CITY ADMINISTRATION, as the main office of the city authorities in free cities (those with the Charter of Freedom), has common architectural elements:

• Ground floor – loggia for a courtroom or a marketplace, and
• First floor – main auditorium and premises for meetings, a balcony or an extended balcony and a tower which was, when speaking of

Sarajevo City hall, placed on the backside of the central dome erected over the six-angled hall roofed with the glass dome.
In the history of the western European cities, the existence of a city hall apparently represented a higher form of the city’s autonomy, i.e. a higher grade of political (municipal) autonomy. So, the city of Sarajevo got its City Hall as early as in 1896.

In the year of 1912, the interior was redecorated, and, in 1984, all the stained-glass complexes and the painted sections of the interior were washed and cleaned, while the hallway, parts of the central hall, fountain beds on both sides of the entrance stairway and the stairway itself underwent restoration.

Orginal Bosnian product

Čevapi or Čevapćići - Bosnian national specialty made on grill is the famous Bosnian brand internationally recognized. Those are small dumplings made from minced meat, mainly veal, mixed with garlic, than onion and different spices. Average length of one cevap is about 5 cm. Čevapi are grilled and served in pita bread previously dressed by gravy with chopped onion aside. According to tradition čevapi are served in čevabdžinice located, when we talk about Sarajevo city, mainly on Baščaršija.
Milk products could be served with čevapi, like yoghurt, sour milk, keffir or pita bread stuffed by cream. Čevapi are served in various portions in Bosnia and Herzegovina and we have variety in regional preparations and shapes.